Helags to Harjangsfjallen (Reindeer) Day 6

I awake to another bright morning. Early of course, even this far south of the Arctic Circle constant daylight in the first days of July. Breakfasting with attendant insects I contemplate the day ahead.

A fairly easy day on the cards I've around twenty kilometres on good trail. An opportunity to shop a little at Helags Fellstation, I'm hoping for a well-stocked shop with a selection of gear. The loss of my map-case in Rogen still smarts but I'm getting by with my freezer bag. In any event I've the luxury of Calazo's Tyvek 'Jamtlandsfjallen' map. Water-resistant and light it's replaced my old and battered Lantmateriet's Z6. A relic of my early years of backpacking around the 'Triangle'.

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A gentle climb up onto the plateau where Helags Fellstation sits. Nestled in the lap of the Helags Massif this collection of large huts is a popular STF destination. As I near tents are clustered on the periphery. A group of families clad in Fjallraven and encamped with top-end Hilleberg. People mill Helag's centre in warm lunchtime sun. A reindeer and her calf seek shelter in the shadow of a hut.

Quite a contrast to when I was here last. Then, one early October, high winds blew me off the surrounding fell and, following the beam of my head torch, towards the shelter of the 'sakerhets rum' (safety room). Out of season Helags was shut tight and dark. Typical to all STF huts/stations one room is left open to provide some shelter. I surprised a couple that dark autumnal night bursting through the door at dusk. A guide and his female client there's plenty of flirtation between the two. We get used to each other and then shared a companionable evening. The male is a Swedish mountain guide. He informed me that the best mountains in Sweden lie in Marsfjallen. Many weeks away in southern Lapland I now look forward to passing through that way on my Grona Bandet.

Today though I make the most of Helags in season. I sit in the small restaurant swilling coffee and then eating soup. The shop hits the spot. A limited but decent selection of outdoor gear yields a good enough 'Pacific Outdoor' map case at 150 kronor. Crispbread restocked I even have enough time to write a postcard to my kids, that will fly-out tomorrow. Down on the helicopter that supplies Helags and Sylarna, it will enter the postal system in Ljungdalen.

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I was reluctant to sit down and eat. Sitting and resting in the day invites a weariness. I find it hard to start again but I comfort myself with an easy afternoon and the pleasure of walking into a new part of Jamtland for me. The trail towards Ljungan is relatively quiet, at odds with the well cut track west to Sylarna and it's busy international crowd. I move off the 'Southern Kungsleden' as Helags gradually recedes behind me. A sense of another page turned on my walk.

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A quick rest at the 'vindskydd' at Ljungan. It's typical of others in the area. Grubby inside and with decade of graffiti scrawled across the interior. Some decent pitches mind around Preannenjohke but I resolve to climb towards a patchwork of lakes at the foot of Harjangsfjallen.

To my right as I walk several kilometres of reindeer fence run proud. The map tells me that the buildings I can make out at the foot of Preannenhke are a slaughter house for the local 'Sameby's' herd. This is not only a place of recreation but of industry too. I once watched helicopters herd reindeer not far off from here, I am to witness that several weeks later one brilliant white night in Lapland. Tonight as I eat I watch quad bikes in the distance herd several hundred. Bikes bustle and roar for an hour and then the fells fall silent. I fall asleep early in bright evening sun, happy.

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