 Looking back at the pictures of this day I am struck by the intensity of the blue sky. The weather had been building to this since I had left Gaddede. Waking up at my high camp above Sipmesjaalhte the promise of a hot day was also to inform my route choice. My original route plan was to see me heading to Sielkenjakkstugan and then via Harbergsdalen before north across Borgafjallen. My destination Raukasjo before a single high fells trail into Lapland. The alternative was a shorter route to Raukajo via Ankarede. Wetter ground was promised by the map but it looked half a day shorter. As I packed up that morning in dazzling sun I persuaded myself that half a day saved was all to the good.  Putting myself onto the westerly route around Ovredahke was easy enough. As I descended off the fell the Sami huts at Sielken provided a reference point. Another quiet Sami settlement passed through, again barking dogs marked my progress. Then a climb onto Rodfjallstugan, heaving myself and my still heavy pack in hot sun. But the view's certainly worth it. Wild campsites abound up here with flat pitches next to sparkling tarns.  I arrive at the rest hut of Rodfjallstugan around 11.30 am and commence my customary inspection. I note the boys from Le Trek spent the night here. Again their visit 10 days before was in markedly cooler conditions. I spend a few minutes collecting myself. A wooden bench outside besides a fire pit offers a few minutes respite before a sense of making progress stirs me. I'm rather drawn to this place mind. A high location, lightly wooded and commanding views.  It's a good trail down to Ankarede. Well marked and duck boarded in places. I bump into my first walkers since Jamtland to my surprise. Arguably they don't count! Locals out on a 'fisketur'. It makes me think how quiet these hills and trail network is. Quiet a difference to popular northern Lappland but equal certainly. I'll be back here on day. Linking this area up with neighbouring Norwegian Borgafjell offers plenty of options.  Ankarede is interesting (more here). A large collection of wooden Sami 'kata' become apparent as I cross Lejaralven. What's before me is a key part of Sami culture in the region. A village around a large wooden chapel marking how western civilisation and Christianity established itself in the north. Today though it's fairly quiet but it serves as a launching place for a well marked trail to the stunning waterfalls at Lejarfallet. And here is the highlight of the day, undoubtedly. Over the broad fall tumble gallons of white water. Quite a contrast against an azure northern sky. I sit for a while (after emerging from the bush and spooking a family) picking at some dried fruit. It's a glorious day no doubt but walking in hot weather brings it's own challenges.  The heat and worsening condition of the trail conspire to bring an afternoon of toil. Cross hatching on the map indicates marshland and I am right in it! Ski posts mark the way in the main and they conceal themselves in vegetation and bush. It's a rough ten kilometres up from the falls and towards the rest hut at Tjarnbacken. I've had enough when I get there. Normally I don't like to camp around 'vindskydder' but today the remoteness of the location and heat of the day settle it. The tent goes up and I look around. The facilities though seem fairly luxurious. The main hut provides a room to sit in and eat out of the reach of the gangs of insects buzzing around. a second hut has a sit down toilet, loo paper and a large bin for my rubbish. I begin to settle in and the familiar routine of washing and eating occupies my evening. I flick through the hut book. There are some amusing comments, some equaled by the graffitti on the hut wall (including one by someone who exhorts care and consideration of the wilderness but has no issue with defacing buildings). What's clear is how infrequent visitors are here. I spend a quiet night consequently. Bed follows in bright sunshine a little after ten. Comments are closed.
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