One Swedish Summer
  • My Blog
    • About Me
My Gronabandet Summer 2013

Wilderness Walking In Northern Places

'there is nothing like a wilderness journey for rekindling the fires of life. Simplicity is part of it. Transportation reduced to leg - or arm - power, eating irons to one spoon. Such simplicity, together with sweat and silence, amplify the rhythms of any long journey, especially through unknown, untattered territory. And in the end such a journey can restore an understanding of how insignificant you are - and thereby set you free' (Colin Fletcher)
Picture

High Arctic Backpacking - Svalbard

5/1/2014

 
Picture
This time of year brings me two pre-occupations. The first is my annual tax return (groan), the second involves planning some summer backpacking outside of the UK.

I've thought through a couple of options. Alaska or Canada were certainly contenders. I looked at flights to Fairbanks and then a bus up the Dalton highway for a run through the Brooks Range, that's still on the to-do list certainly. Equally though a logical extension of last summer's Grona Bandet is a walk in 'Greater Scandinavia', namely the islands of Svalbard. These islands certainly belong to the Arctic though technically
constitute the northernmost part of Norway. Located north of mainland Europe, it is about midway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. The group of islands range from 74° to 81° north latitude, and from 10° to 35° east longitude. Spitsbergen is the largest island, followed by Nordaustlandet and Edgeøya. The administrative center is Longyearbyen, and other settlements, in addition to research outposts, are the Russian mining community of Barentsburg, the research community of Ny-Ålesund and the mining outpost of Sveagruva. It's an international place with a number of countries having research facilities located on the islands.

And what will
I do once I am there? My intention is a solo backpack through the valleys and mountains lying south of Longyearbyen and down to the Russian settlement of Barentsburg. Possibly a return to Longyearbyen along the coast, though there's an increased risk of an encounter with a polar bear in coastal areas (though they can pop up everywhere). And that's the issue really. The islands are home to around 3000 polar bears (I understand that to be around 10 per cent of the world's population) and they have an extensive range. Consequently, those that leave the settlements are customarily armed with heavy calibre weapons and most folk venture out on organised tours.

Now reading as much as I have been able to and making some enquiries I see the risk of an encounter similar to the risks I faced in the Yukon when Grizzlies were the issue. Grizzlies were a big part of that trip and I spent some time reading up on bear behaviour and trip management (I really enjoyed this book, it's fascinating - I will be rereading it)
. In the Yukon I was careful to minimise the risk of an encounter and to prepare myself physically and mentally for one.

Picture
In Svalbard I would be looking to carry some extra equipment as part of a defence system. That would include a 7.62 rifle and trip wires to set around camp as a warning system. Campsite management of food and waste would be much like the Yukon. I've been in contact with the office of the island's Governor about a firearms permit and it seems doable.

And the reward for the added weight of defence gear and the necessary vigilance that a trip in bear-country brings? I've picked up one map already (with the other two in stock and relatively inexpensive at the excellent Map Shop) and there's some interesting hiking on offer. High rocky fells and glaciers galore. Perhaps challenging at time with plenty of moraine but a stark arctic beauty.

Picture
Additionally the Soviet era Russian settlements could be interesting with busts of Lenin, crumbling Soviet architecture, an anachronistic wilderness hotel (Barentsburg) and cheap Vodka. Some photos of the abandoned Pyramiden here.

A good map here of Svalbard gives an idea of some of it's potential.

There's much to think about and risks and consequences to carefully weigh up, but it looks like an interesting option. I've been in contact with the Governor in respect of my plans. Additionally, through the magic of the internet I've made contact with a young English man who has a fair bit of Svalbard experience. I am grateful to Liam for his advice, his site is worth a look. Liam's planning another Svalbard winter expedition and I wish him luck.

It's good to be planning again, Svalbard seems an exciting prospect. There will be much to enjoy but plenty of challenge too. A continuation of my love affair with the North.

RedYetiDave link
5/1/2014 03:21:00 am

Wow that's a properly bonkers sounding trip! :)

Can't recall if you carry one already but I'd recommend a Spot tracker (Spot 2 is lighter and has a much better GPS chip).

Look forward to hearing more on that if you decide to go that way...

Mark
5/1/2014 03:23:52 am

You want to come!?

Yes, I've booked my flights so sort of committed myself. Used a spot this summer (belonged to Vitagronabandet) which I have returned, I might consider buying one myself though.

RedYetiDave link
5/1/2014 03:27:34 am

Ummm... you know... the bears would kinda negate the "relaxing walk" aspect of it for me! ;) But great offer thanks! Given other circumstances I'd have loved to! :)

Oh sorry I have my Xmas head on - misread the post slightly and thought you were still mulling options. Wow - really looking forward to hearing about the trip then!

Mark
5/1/2014 04:29:33 am

woops ... didnt mean to delete both your second comments (only one as duplicate). I know what you mean re relaxing walk.

RogerB link
11/1/2014 01:18:41 pm

Sounds like a fascinating and somewhat nerve racking trip, but no doubt a rewarding adventure. I expect I will be hiking in the Southern Hemisphere this winter, hoping for drier weather. BTW I see there is a third generation spot out.

Mark
11/1/2014 11:48:25 pm

Good to hear from you Roger. Yes, it's an interesting prospect. I am planning at the moment (getting a gun licence here in the UK at the mo', never thought I would be doing that for a backpacking trip) and reading some fascinating books about Svalbard and the arctic in general.

Seriously considering my own Spot or equivalent.


Comments are closed.

    Archives

    July 2017
    June 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    April 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    March 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012

Proudly powered by Weebly
  • My Blog
    • About Me