High Arctic Backpacking - Svalbard

This time of year brings me two pre-occupations. The first is my annual tax return (groan), the second involves planning some summer backpacking outside of the UK.

I've thought through a couple of options. Alaska or Canada were certainly contenders. I looked at flights to Fairbanks and then a bus up the Dalton highway for a run through the Brooks Range, that's still on the to-do list certainly. Equally though a logical extension of last summer's Grona Bandet is a walk in 'Greater Scandinavia', namely the islands of Svalbard. These islands certainly belong to the Arctic though technically constitute the northernmost part of Norway. Located north of mainland Europe, it is about midway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. The group of islands range from 74° to 81° north latitude, and from 10° to 35° east longitude. Spitsbergen is the largest island, followed by Nordaustlandet and Edgeøya. The administrative center is Longyearbyen, and other settlements, in addition to research outposts, are the Russian mining community of Barentsburg, the research community of Ny-Ålesund and the mining outpost of Sveagruva. It's an international place with a number of countries having research facilities located on the islands.

And what will I do once I am there? My intention is a solo backpack through the valleys and mountains lying south of Longyearbyen and down to the Russian settlement of Barentsburg. Possibly a return to Longyearbyen along the coast, though there's an increased risk of an encounter with a polar bear in coastal areas (though they can pop up everywhere). And that's the issue really. The islands are home to around 3000 polar bears (I understand that to be around 10 per cent of the world's population) and they have an extensive range. Consequently, those that leave the settlements are customarily armed with heavy calibre weapons and most folk venture out on organised tours.

Now reading as much as I have been able to and making some enquiries I see the risk of an encounter similar to the risks I faced in the Yukon when Grizzlies were the issue. Grizzlies were a big part of that trip and I spent some time reading up on bear behaviour and trip management (I really enjoyed this book, it's fascinating - I will be rereading it). In the Yukon I was careful to minimise the risk of an encounter and to prepare myself physically and mentally for one.

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In Svalbard I would be looking to carry some extra equipment as part of a defence system. That would include a 7.62 rifle and trip wires to set around camp as a warning system. Campsite management of food and waste would be much like the Yukon. I've been in contact with the office of the island's Governor about a firearms permit and it seems doable.

And the reward for the added weight of defence gear and the necessary vigilance that a trip in bear-country brings? I've picked up one map already (with the other two in stock and relatively inexpensive at the excellent Map Shop) and there's some interesting hiking on offer. High rocky fells and glaciers galore. Perhaps challenging at time with plenty of moraine but a stark arctic beauty.

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Additionally the Soviet era Russian settlements could be interesting with busts of Lenin, crumbling Soviet architecture, an anachronistic wilderness hotel (Barentsburg) and cheap Vodka. Some photos of the abandoned Pyramiden here.

A good map here of Svalbard gives an idea of some of it's potential.

There's much to think about and risks and consequences to carefully weigh up, but it looks like an interesting option. I've been in contact with the Governor in respect of my plans. Additionally, through the magic of the internet I've made contact with a young English man who has a fair bit of Svalbard experience. I am grateful to Liam for his advice, his site is worth a look. Liam's planning another Svalbard winter expedition and I wish him luck.

It's good to be planning again, Svalbard seems an exciting prospect. There will be much to enjoy but plenty of challenge too. A continuation of my love affair with the North.

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