gronabandet stage 4 (A) (kungsleden alternative)

I have spent an enjoyable evening looking at maps and working out the route from Hemavan to Abisko (Stage 4). The obvious route is the Kungsleden, around 450 kms of world class trail through raw wilderness. Having walked over half of it already I know how good it is. It is now some years ago, walking from Abisko to Kvikkjokk on the Kungsleden (ie half) in the 'stupidly fast' time of seven days, that I fell in love with backpacking/wilderness walking. Despite finishing with tattered feet (very traditional 'Lundhags' boots in hot weather) and totally exhausted I've kept on coming back for more. Older and wiser I've slowed down and enjoy the view a bit more. It was pure vanity to think that wilderness or mountains can be 'conquered'.

---

I am considering an alternative route to the Kungsleden and that will take me through country I've always had an eye on. Whilst the Kungsleden from Tarnasjo (the third hut from Hemavan, a lovely lakeside spot, as pictured here) heads about fifty kms east and north from there to Kvikkjokk and the eastern side of Sarek), there is an alternative route north. I've mapped out a route that hugs the Norwegian border for a couple of days and then breaks cross country (no trail, some wild walking but a good river to 'handrail' until I reach Laisstugan) meeting the next trail which will take me to my one and only supply point, Vuoggatjalme, before Abisko around 8 days later.

---

This choice covers in part some trail I've walked before. The first part is known to me from several years ago (bridge near the Sami settlement of Dalavardo pictured, that village was deserted in the summer, though I felt 'observed' as I walked through it). Thereafter, until the hut at Pieskehaure, it's new. The advantage on this section, as opposed to the Kungsleden, is that there are fewer lakes. Mavas (the map hints of an intriguing semiphore system to, no doubt, summon a lift from the Sami village opposite - I've subsequently checked online since writing this and there are two semiphore posts with boats at around 300/400 kr) and Vaisa present the two departure points, on the Kungsleden there are considerably more. Pieskhaure north is very familiar as I wandered down this way in the summer. Padjelantaleden (a route that I love for the big lakes and far reaching views across to the snow capped Norwegian mountains of Rago, also the birch forests to the north) will take me to Vaisa and then the boat to Ritsem (I miss also the stretch of road from Kebnats west if I was on the Kungsleden route). Another resupply at the Ritsem 'fjallstation' and then the Nordkalotleden branching off to meet the Kungsleden around Salka and then north to the sophisticated delights, hot water and a restaurant, of Abisko. 'All-in-all' a two week route from Hemavan.

A very good site detailing the author's walk from Pieskehaure to Abisko is www.nielsenbrownoutdoors.com/. There is an amusing and interesting narrative with some fine photographs.

I've even considered an alternative from Dalarvado to Pieskehaure through Norway. As I have the Norwegian map for Saltfjellet I can see a route for several days on the Norwegian side of the border to the small village at Sulitjelma. It's got potential and Sulitjelma, somewhere I've passed through twice exiting the wilderness and heading home to Britain, has the advantage of a good supermarket (a 'Konsum'). That's the beauty of the 'gronabandet', total flexibility in route choice.

---

I need to now map out the Kungsleden route from Hemavan to Abisko and consider the merits. There will be a single trail with more opportunity for supply, not least at Kvikkjokk and Salto (a favourite place of mine particularly the excellent 'fjallstation' restaurant). The walk from Kvikkjokk north is good, skirting Sarek, and I have happy memories of it. I love the mouth of the Rapadalen with the forests, water and mountains creating a real spectacle. Lake crossings though could slow things down considerably. I need to either row the rowing boats provided on the trail (see my earlier post on the 'Roddled') or pay the Sami to ferry me across. The advantage is that the trail from Tarnasjo to Kvikkjokk is all new to me and I have heard it's very good indeed. It would be something, of course, to walk the whole of the Kungsleden in one go.

Two further observations. I am looking at upgrading some of my 'rather ancient' Lantmateriet Fjallkarta to their Calazo equivalents (I bought the Calazo Padjelanta/Sarek sheet this summer, same survey but two maps on one sheet and both tougher and lighter). Secondly, I note now how provisional this list is and will fine tune it over the months. I need, not least, someone to take my boxes in for me.

---

DAY

30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44

DESTINATION

Tarnasjon
Dalavardo
Sarvesjaurek
Laisstugan (via Glibbokatan)
Vuoggat'lme (Supply Box)
Ikesjaure (via Mavas)
Pieskehaure
Stalo'
(Wild Rest Day)
Kutjaure
Ritsem
Hukejaurestugan
Tjakktastugan
Abisko
(Rest)

MAP

AC2
AC2
BD15
BD15
BD14
BD14
BD9
BD9
BD9
BD9
BD9
BD7/BD6
BD6
BD6