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My Gronabandet Summer 2013

Wilderness Walking In Northern Places

'there is nothing like a wilderness journey for rekindling the fires of life. Simplicity is part of it. Transportation reduced to leg - or arm - power, eating irons to one spoon. Such simplicity, together with sweat and silence, amplify the rhythms of any long journey, especially through unknown, untattered territory. And in the end such a journey can restore an understanding of how insignificant you are - and thereby set you free' (Colin Fletcher)
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gronabandet stage 4 (A) (kungsleden alternative)

14/1/2013

 
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I have spent an enjoyable evening looking at maps and working out the route from Hemavan to Abisko (Stage 4). The obvious route is the Kungsleden, around 450 kms of world class trail through raw wilderness. Having walked over half of it already I know how good it is. It is now some years ago, walking from Abisko to Kvikkjokk on the Kungsleden (ie half) in the 'stupidly fast' time of seven days, that I fell in love with backpacking/wilderness walking. Despite finishing with tattered feet (very traditional 'Lundhags' boots in hot weather) and totally exhausted I've kept on coming back for more. Older and wiser I've slowed down and enjoy the view a bit more. It was pure vanity to think that wilderness or mountains can be 'conquered'.

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I am considering an alternative route to the Kungsleden and that will take me through country I've always had an eye on. Whilst the Kungsleden from Tarnasjo (the third hut from Hemavan, a lovely lakeside spot, as pictured here) heads about fifty kms east and north from there to Kvikkjokk and the eastern side of Sarek), there is an alternative route north. I've mapped out a route that hugs the Norwegian border for a couple of days and then breaks cross country (no trail, some wild walking but a good river to 'handrail' until I reach Laisstugan) meeting the next trail which will take me to my one and only supply point, Vuoggatjalme, before Abisko around 8 days later.

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This choice covers in part some trail I've walked before. The first part is known to me from several years ago (bridge near the Sami settlement of Dalavardo pictured, that village was deserted in the summer, though I felt 'observed' as I walked through it). Thereafter, until the hut at Pieskehaure, it's new. The advantage on this section, as opposed to the Kungsleden, is that there are fewer lakes. Mavas (the map hints of an intriguing semiphore system to, no doubt, summon a lift from the Sami village opposite - I've subsequently checked online since writing this and there are two semiphore posts with boats at around 300/400 kr) and Vaisa present the two departure points, on the Kungsleden there are considerably more. Pieskhaure north is very familiar as I wandered down this way in the summer. Padjelantaleden (a route that I love for the big lakes and far reaching views across to the snow capped Norwegian mountains of Rago, also the birch forests to the north) will take me to Vaisa and then the boat to Ritsem (I miss also the stretch of road from Kebnats west if I was on the Kungsleden route). Another resupply at the Ritsem 'fjallstation' and then the Nordkalotleden branching off to meet the Kungsleden around Salka and then north to the sophisticated delights, hot water and a restaurant, of Abisko. 'All-in-all' a two week route from Hemavan.

A very good site detailing the author's walk from Pieskehaure to Abisko is www.nielsenbrownoutdoors.com/. There is an amusing and interesting narrative with some fine photographs.

I've even considered an alternative from Dalarvado to Pieskehaure through Norway. As I have the Norwegian map for Saltfjellet I can see a route for several days on the Norwegian side of the border to the small village at Sulitjelma. It's got potential and Sulitjelma, somewhere I've passed through twice exiting the wilderness and heading home to Britain, has the advantage of a good supermarket (a 'Konsum'). That's the beauty of the 'gronabandet', total flexibility in route choice.

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I need to now map out the Kungsleden route from Hemavan to Abisko and consider the merits. There will be a single trail with more opportunity for supply, not least at Kvikkjokk and Salto (a favourite place of mine particularly the excellent 'fjallstation' restaurant). The walk from Kvikkjokk north is good, skirting Sarek, and I have happy memories of it. I love the mouth of the Rapadalen with the forests, water and mountains creating a real spectacle. Lake crossings though could slow things down considerably. I need to either row the rowing boats provided on the trail (see my earlier post on the 'Roddled') or pay the Sami to ferry me across. The advantage is that the trail from Tarnasjo to Kvikkjokk is all new to me and I have heard it's very good indeed. It would be something, of course, to walk the whole of the Kungsleden in one go.

Two further observations. I am looking at upgrading some of my 'rather ancient' Lantmateriet Fjallkarta to their Calazo equivalents (I bought the Calazo Padjelanta/Sarek sheet this summer, same survey but two maps on one sheet and both tougher and lighter). Secondly, I note now how provisional this list is and will fine tune it over the months. I need, not least, someone to take my boxes in for me.

DAY

30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44

DESTINATION

Tarnasjon
Dalavardo
Sarvesjaurek
Laisstugan (via Glibbokatan)
Vuoggat'lme (Supply Box)
Ikesjaure (via Mavas)
Pieskehaure
Stalo'
(Wild Rest Day)
Kutjaure
Ritsem
Hukejaurestugan
Tjakktastugan
Abisko
(Rest)
MAP

AC2
AC2
BD15
BD15
BD14
BD14
BD9
BD9
BD9
BD9
BD9
BD7/BD6
BD6
BD6
Hans
17/1/2013 07:58:30 am

I envy you!

Mark
17/1/2013 04:40:52 pm

Thanks Hans! Yes, I need to savour this, the anticipation and planning is all part of it. I think I'll feel a little bereft when its all done, planning for a week long 'tur' might never see the same again!

Lots of possibility on this fourth stage so its quite exciting. Even considering heading to Riksgransen instead of Abisko (the route north from there is more problematic). I now think the ideal time period for the Gronabandet would be mid June to mid September, a real opportunity to explore 'fjallen' - sadly I am limited to only two months.

Mark

RogerB link
18/1/2013 09:10:55 pm

Your posts and reading the posts of Le Trek has got me thinking more about my summer tour. Combining your 4a and 4b into a circuit starting and finishing at Kvikkjokk is appealing. I would have a food drop at Hemavan. This is just one of a number of options, which I need to firm up in the coming weeks. So I am looking forward to reading more on your plans. BTW what footwear are planning to use?

Mark
19/1/2013 12:54:52 am

Roger,

I think 4a and 4b would make an excellent combination. Hemavan is quite a decent place to restock, decent supermarket and I ate in a very nice cafe/restaurant whilst waiting for the plane to S'holm (it was all u can eat, after a week on the trail that was a lot). Petrol station as well where you can buy 'T-Rod'. You can also use the chairlift (not me though!) to miss the first few miles of the K'leden.

Let me know what you plan!

I use Terrocs, I picked up two new pairs already in a sale which should see me through (will pick up new pair at Hemavan). Used them now for three years and generally happy. Only complaint is grip on rock, more a problem doing Munros in Highlands than trailwalking. I run a lot so use 315s for that. I love Innov8s!

RogerB link
19/1/2013 10:15:19 pm

Thanks for the info about Hemavan, I have ordered the Calazo maps (thanks for the tip) so planning can begin in earnest. If I am coming in and out of Hemavan on the Kungsleden then the chairlift one way may be tempting, we will see. As for shoes, I used the 315's last year and 370's the year before, this year I am leaning towards the 295's because of their sticky rubber compound.

Mark
20/1/2013 06:08:05 am

Enjoy the planning. The 'fjallstuga' in this part of Lapland all stock provisions so you can pick up fuel along the way (and could possibly avoid Hemavan itself). Tarnasjo is a lovely lake and the large U shaped glacial valley for there to Hemavan quite something. All-in-all good place to visit and very quiet compared to the northern K'leden.

I 'summited' Sytertoppen which was quite a day, top shrouded in mist and below freezing and avoided the sheer drop as well!

Calazo maps very good. I am replacing some of the key maps of the walk with this series. Makes sense.

I take you point re the 295s, I agree. I think the received wisdom is the sole doesnt last as long as the Terroc. However, I find its the sides that split first!

Roger B link
17/2/2013 02:45:38 am

Hi Mark where did you find the links for the boats across Mavasjaure? It seems that I maybe heading in the opposite direction to you.


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