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My Gronabandet Summer 2013

Wilderness Walking In Northern Places

'there is nothing like a wilderness journey for rekindling the fires of life. Simplicity is part of it. Transportation reduced to leg - or arm - power, eating irons to one spoon. Such simplicity, together with sweat and silence, amplify the rhythms of any long journey, especially through unknown, untattered territory. And in the end such a journey can restore an understanding of how insignificant you are - and thereby set you free' (Colin Fletcher)
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Day 43 - Vierttjamoalkke to Aras' - Padjelantaleden

15/7/2014

4 Comments

 
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I descend holding the line of the jokk to my left. Below the valley holding the hut of Staddajakka, it's bathed in bright sunshine and water reflects off Gahpesluoppal. I stop and chat by the bridge that marks the branching of the Nordkalotleden. There's a man camped by the bridge, an elderly German who is clearly delighted to be here. He's to follow the western branch of the trail to Sulitjelma via Sarjasjaure. That's a fine walk, one I did in 2010, the route runs high into the Norwegian mountains and there's a real change to high rocky peaks. A contrast to the rolling hills and woods of Padjelantaleden. For me though I head north east along Stalojahka. My third time this way and a path I am very familiar with.

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At the end of course is the vast space of Virihaure and Staloluokkta itself. After the quiet of the south it bustles, almost the feeling of a resort as tourists disgorge from helicopters and people pitch tents along the shores. I use the facilities to dispose of my rubbish and wander through. I hear English spoken by native speakers which causes me to stop and stare. There's folk all around, a party of girls are organising a boat trip across the lake whilst another group is working out the helicopter timetable.

I move on though, picking up the path that runs along the shoreline. The views across the vast lake never fail to impress me. This is what Padjelantaleden is about, a fine trail and a walking experience similar to a cliff walk. And the context is the watery expanse of the two lakes and Rago, appealing in the distance.

By five I've enough, on the outskirts of Aras I stray from the trail and find a fine pitch by a jokk. It's enough glorious evening and I'm happy with my progress. My intention though still is to reach Ritsem in two days.

4 Comments
James Boulter link
15/7/2014 04:46:08 am

I'm paying full attention of your progress over the next couple of trekking days. Don't forget to post lots of photos!

Reply
Mark
15/7/2014 04:58:03 am

I will provided you excuse me for taking almost a year to post!

Reply
RogerB link
25/7/2014 04:39:14 am

I too met an elderly German hiker when I was there in 2010, he lamented that there were not many Germans hiking in the area these days. Beautiful photos which exemplify the natural beauty of the area, and the helicopters that are ever present at this time of the year.

Reply
Mark
27/7/2014 04:16:38 am

I heard a lot German on my two days on the Kungsleden to Abisko. Yes the helicopters shuttle back and forth, almost on the trail line.

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